September 19, 2017
Ashwin 03, 2074
“I’m in Pokhara, just arrived at home.”
I got a call around 10:00 PM. I asked are you joining. He became wordless. He said I like to join but I got the financial problem. I again asked do you want or not? He said Yes. I told him to pack your bag forget the financial problem but did not tell that where we are heading for. But it’s sure that we are going for trek tomorrow in the early morning.
September 20, 2017
Ashwin 04, 2074
This one is the sudden trek with my own student. From the first month of his class in the Regional College of Health Science and Technology; he started following my footprints. He found out my blog and my hidden passion. He requested me to do promise for the trek after the final exam. I did promise but were unable to do immediately after the final exam. I told him I will let you know when we are going but you have to be prepared for the sudden trek.
I went to bed at 2:00 Am in the morning after packing a bag. I was late to wake up in the morning and still had hang-up because I was not sleeping properly that night. I took tea and moving to buy trekking bread; I got a call around 7:00 AM. Come fast; I book a bus ticket and is leaving soon. It was my trekking partner and of course student who called yesterday late night. I am on the way, just wait for few minutes, I told on the phone.
At 7:30, I arrived at Bus Park. The bus seats were already booked so I put my bag on the seat and we moved to the nearby departmental store for some food that can be eaten on the way. Around 8:00 AM, the bus moved from the station. In Naya-Pool, but stopped for some lunch break. I got no option for the toilet. So, I tried my empty mind to find out the clean toilet of Muktinath Bikas Bank even though I was not the customer. It was almost 1:00 PM when we arrived at Kimchae the last station of but to Ghandruk.
We started our first-day walk from Kimchae. We tried old rough way even there was a new one. We saw many of the foreigners on the way but when my student saw the young beautiful girl; he makes a joke of me by asking which one do you choose sir to get married. I said I will say when my eyes get to stop on with one. On the way, some of the villagers were working on potato field and eating reddish. I saw a green leaf of reddish and I said “Kasto mukh nai rasayo didi harule Mula khako dekhera.”
I did not suppose that they listened to me but they do. They were happy to offer reddish for us and we happily opened our hands and thanked them too. We ate wild fruit that found on the way. I was surprised when one foreigner asked about that fruit. I said it’s the wild one and I’m not sure of the name and you shouldn’t try because you may get the problem.
The way was hard and straight up to the hill and it was raining too. The weather was not favorable but we enjoyed the first-day trek. It was so hard for me because I was trekking after a year. I got intense knee pain but I tried hard to climb up the hill. It almost took 5 hours to get up to Tadapani. We were wet and tired so we got into the first hotel in Tadapani. After changing clothes, we went to the dining hall where other groups were also present. Our conversations started with the one group who were from Kathmandu. They were three young guy and friendly too. We made laugh and shared lot of thing about travel. They got shocked when they knew that, we are teacher and student. The most surprising moment was the sharing of the love story of all of us. Even I was teaching of the whole year; now I found out my students affairs too. At 10:30, we went to bed but I didn’t know when I became slept tightly.
September 21, 2017
Ashwin 05, 2074
Hunger makes people search for food. But, my hunger makes me travel to the place I never been.
It was raining from the first day of our travel and whole night too. We became so lazy to left bed in the morning even our eyes were open from 5:00 AM. Around 8:00 AM; I got the urge to urination so I left the bed. Sandip also got up from the bed. Oho. I forget to mention the name of my trek partner before; its Sandip or Sewa. After refreshment; he brought tea to the room. We had breakfast in the room that we brought together; 6-Grain trekking bread, honey, and ginger tea.
The rain was pouring like a mist around Tadapani. The view was not so clear but we were in dilemma whether to leave or not. From last night Sewa; became more curious to climb up to Khayer (Tal) lake So, he also said let’s start to have some adventure for today. We started our walk but became lost in the first step. We took the wrong way, after 5 min I found out that it was wrong. So, Sewa shouted to the one aged person living in the nearby hut. But, what a coincidence; he is deaf. In a muddy way, he got up to that person’s hut and found out that it is the opposite way. A Little bit up, we found other people too.
Ganesh Haina (Isn’t he Ganesh?)
I heard a new lady voice calling up my name when I said we are going to Khopra. I was surprised by a voice of Meena Karki; a legend of trek calling my name. She told us to stay in Bayeli. You can easily reach up to there in time. Our plan to stay in Dobato now changed. We thanked her and other people and take a walk in the right way now.
It almost took us 2 hours to arrive at Meshar. It was still raining and we were bleeding by the bite of leech. The muddy, slippery way with a queue of leech made us crazy. We wanted to take an hour rest with tea or coffee and noodle soup in Meshar but the only restaurant there was closed. Now we got in vain. But, I saw a smoke from hut from a nearby hut. We shouted but no one responded. I asked Sewa let’s go there. We can have rested there for an hour even on one is there.
An average 60-70 aged old man with white beard and hair sleeping in his nest. Peace and Happy, what an awesome life in between the trees with a herd of buffalo. I am sorry, we made him awake. He offered us a place to rest nearby fire. We took off our wet clothes and bags. It was like a child returning home. I requested him for tea, but he didn’t have sugar. Instead of sugar, he was using salt tea. We were okay for salt tea. Suddenly, my mind came to work. I remember that we have honey so we can use it in tea. We took a big sip of tea that was relief from all the pain in the rain. We continued the conversation with the hut man about his family.
Suddenly, I remembered my days in Gyarjati my birthplace and Sedibagar, where I was grown. He was like my father. When I saw his face; it made me recall my past; working in the field, traveling with the father in search of buffalo and ox. Everything from my childhood circled around my head. Now, I knew, what our happiness and the satisfaction. I explored the life lesson of the search for happiness, peace, freedom and the meaning of living with this old man.
Two cups of salted milk tea so strong and the warm of fire gave us energy that we can make our walk up to Bayeli.
After one and half hour rest we left our paradise of travel. It took us 1 hour to stretch to Isharu where all the hotels were closed and the rain was still pouring. I had brought two rain poncho but both are old and had holes and ripped. Sewa saw the clip for hanging clothes and snipped. He uses that clips for arranging our rain poncho. I saw green mint garden around the hotel and my mouth got water. I plucked off some leaf and put in my mouth. But Sewa grabbed a bunch from there when I said you can. We used that mint during our travel as a supplement.
After 2 hours of the walk, we arrived at Dobato. We saw two hotels there but it startled us that both were open. One of the workers in hotel wanted us to stop there. He was talking in a confusing way. Sometimes he says, you can reach Bayeli easily and sometimes it will take a long time to Bayeli. We decided to go to Bayeli. It was the cloudy, foggy and rainy day so we did not try to go for Muldai (3637M height from sea level), a viewpoint of Ganesh Himal, Manaslu, Annapurna Range and Machhapuchhre. Along the way to Bayeli, we met few groups returning. Most of them were returned from Khopra Danda or from the half-way. One group told us that they were heading for Khayer Tal but they couldn’t make it. They returned from halfway to Khayer Tal.
It was almost 4:00 PM, we were walking and walking and there was no sign of destination; Sewa said let’s wait and have something for the stomach. I told him; let’s climb that peak and we will have there. The wind was so strong; I felt that it can blow me too. But; we decided for a walking break and had some food there. The way was almost like pond and water were flowing everywhere. The way was so slippery and muddy; our shoes were like made of soil. But we didn’t lose our hope. Around 5:30 PM we saw a roof from a distance.
It felt like a home; when we got to enter the hotel at Bayeli. We changed everything and got near to heater. There was already one group staying. The hotel owner offered us tea. It was like an elixir for us. After an hour we started playing cards on dining. The guide of other group was talking loudly but we were ignoring him. After dinner, we went to bed but the body was still awake so we started playing cards again. The talkative guide was in our side room, he said sleep otherwise play in dining. I replied him in a rush.
Don’t listen to us. Close your ears and sleep.
September 22, 2017
Ashwin 06, 2074
Why we have the urge to go toilet early on morning even we don’t want to leave the bed?
If we don’t; I will sleep the whole day. Morning 8:00 AM still on the bed, but my urinary bladder didn’t help me to sleep more. The rain was with us from the first day. We went to the kitchen and have ginger tea. It was so warm in the kitchen due to a wood fire. So, we decided to stay and play cards again with breakfast. The chocolate pancake, Vanilla pancake, and chapatti all went inside our stomach but no energy to walk on rain. Around 12:30 PM we had our lunch. Our stomach was like a pregnant woman having a baby of 3 months. It was urging from our stomach to do something for metabolism. Now, finally, we decided to leave for Khopra Danda.
Due to rain the short way to Khopra Danda was closed and not repaired so we follow long way. First; it was 2 hour walk down to hill and then 3 hours up to the hill. It was rainy, slippery, muddy, and bushy and leech-y but we head for our destination. After 2 hour walk, we arrived at Chistibang, a rest point before Khopra Danda. We took a break for our legs there in the first hotel. The hotel owner offered us tea without cost but I insist him to take. We cleaned up our legs that were bleeding by leech bite. During our talk, Sewa remembered Shristi, a friend of his class. Because the name of that resting point is synonome to his friend. A home of Shristi.
After half an hour of rest, we took big decision of climbing up the hill. It was monsoon season so every plant on the way was flowering. It was like a garden of the flower. The whole hill was flowering. In a funny way I made a song:
Srijana ko barima euta ful rope maile. Tei ful lai goddai maile ………
“A Garden of Creation”
The rain was almost stopped and the cloud was clearing up. We were climbing the hill slowly and taking more time to capture photos and making more talk of Srijanako Fulbari. “A Garden of Creation.” Actually, Srijana is a classmate of Sewa. We saw a small pond but were filled up with clear water. There was a small holy place where people have worshipped. We took pictures of it and our picture also. We gave a name to it too, A Sister Khayer Lake.
On the way, we saw the board of hotel in Khopra danda: Khopra Community Lodge. The time up to the hotel was not clear. We thought the hotel is near. So we spent the most time on talking and taking photograph rather than walking. It was almost dark when we reach hotel. But the evening scenes from there were astonishing.
A big group of villagers and a small group of foreigners were there inside the hotel around the heater in dining. The foreigners were there from previous day waiting for the clear view. The villagers were gathered for sacrificing yak and goat for the celebration of Dashain, the biggest festival of Hindus. We joined the groups. The villagers offered us roasted corn and soya beans and a mug of tea. Most of them were suggesting us that it’s hard to go for Khayer Lake. The foreign group was also not sure of. But our decision was solid. After dinner, we went to bed to dream the climbing the unknown place with the hope of success.
September 23, 2017
Ashwin 07, 2074
Morning 6:00 AM; a clear view, and an awesome scenario from Khopra; we were stunned to have such view.
But it didn’t last for 10 minutes. We had our first cup of tea and packed our bags mostly of emergency medicine, raincoat, fast foods, chocolates, and cameras. We asked a full thermos of tea from the hotel for our whole day climb to Khayer Lake as there were no any tea houses on the route. We passed from the sheep herd and yak Kharka up to the hill. The path was almost covered by cloud and it was so hard to recognize for us even from the 2-meter distance but we were destined for Khopra.
After 1 and half hours of walk, we decided to have a cup of tea and some food. We were unknown about where we are actually and how long it will take. The GPS on our tab was not working. We were just following the trak made by sheep or yak. On the way sometimes, the clouds became clear and sometimes so hard to recognize each other too. We did not lose our hope. We kept walking and walking.
Srijana ko fulbarima euta ful rope maile…
This was the only song that made us communicating, making fun and remembering the past and expecting the future. The only we can see on the way was small plant i.e.buki flower and sometimes the blurring mountains.
The sound we listen was the sound of water from the nearby river. I checked the map but there was only secondary track and sometimes tertiary tract.
No teahouses, no human footprints, and nothing. In the map, there was shown one small shelter but we couldn’t recognize how long does it take. We rested somewhere in between the route where we saw one small cattle house.
The hot tea and food gave us energy; we again moved on. After one hour we found some small houses. They look like a shelter for cattle (sheep and yak) and the person keeping them. But all the shelter were empty. We saw small painting showing the way to Khayer Lake. We followed the sign.
I was checking GPS on Tab every time but sometimes it showed the track and sometimes lost. After 30 minutes, we fucked up; the GPS showed up but we were on wrong. We shocked because GPS was only one thing that showed us we were following right route. We decided in rush to go back. We came back to that shelter point and again tried for tracking the route. We roam around the hill. Almost 30 minutes of struggle we found the GPS location. This time we knew that we were following right track but GPS was not right. After that, we didn’t depend on GPS only. We lost our 1 hour searching for the route. It was almost 2 hours from our previous tea break. We found out the straight up steps. They seem so hard. Before starting that one we decided to have a break for tea and cookies.
The steps up in the hill were hard enough to climb up but our inner eager to reach up was increasing in every step. The small stoned monuments build by the people in the name of their ancestors were the resting points and our temple to pray to teach safely up to Khayer Lake. After climbing up the hill; there were a huge valley and a river in between the hills. It was like the hidden valley up in the hills.
We followed the river. After an hour we saw steeps again. Before climbing the steps it was written
“Papi-Dharmi Ukalo” meaning Wicked and Saint Steep.
The meaning of this steep is that the sinful person couldn’t complete this steep whether the saint can. Yeah, it was the hardest part of that trek but we never saw back. We just thought about the destination. It almost took 30 minutes but was hard enough. After that we saw one temple. We followed the temple making it on our right arm. We were almost nearby our destination.
The Paradise: Khayer Barah Lake, Temple, and Mount South Annapurna
In between the hills where we saw the roof of the temple from far away. The moment we couldn’t describe how much happy we were. We finally made steeps up in the hills; our destination.
We found The Paradise in the lap of South Annapurna; a lake with the clear water, a temple at the entrance and surrounding small hill.
A perfect hidden treasure of nature which we couldn’t believe. The water was so vibrant that we could see the stones deep down. A mist blowing up as the solar lighting. We were so lucky enough to catch the overall view after a minute of arrival. We put our bags nearby temple became calm for some minutes to see the natural beauty.
After half an hour we filled our drinking water bottle and took far away from the lake to clean up ourselves because we didn’t suppose to make dirt and disturb the rhythm of the water.
In the second lot; we filled a water bottle to do worship in the Barah Temple. In the Hindu religion, it was said that if we do worship in this temple and wished something; it will be fulfilled. So we did too. After worshipping in the temple we stayed there half an hour more to explore the temple and lake. Moreover, we dwell on the beauty of the Khayer Barah Lake and Temple and the stunning view of mount South Annapurna.
There is no any place to stay overnight and is at the high altitude around 4600 meters from sea level. It was almost 1:30 PM and we did not have a choice so we left the heaven. During our return the view was perfect and we were so lucky to see much more on the way back. We took two breaks to have tea and foods.
It was down to hill and more easy then climbing steeply. Sometimes we ran and sometimes we delay during taking photographs too. We arrived at Khopra Danda community village lodge around 7:00 PM in the evening where we were going to stay.
September 24, 2017
Ashwin 08, 2074
The Golden Mountain and the flawless environs.
Morning 6:30 AM, when we got out of the room we were stunned by the prospect from the Khopra Danda. The previous morning we rush to the Khayer Lake so we missed it. I asked Sewa to bring a camera but he brought his own so I missed it in my lenses. But my eyes captured the panoramic view: The Golden Mountain and the flawless environs.
I thought The Khopra-Khayer Lake was calling us so we made even it was harsh and finally we got the hidden prospect of nature from both of the places. No one was sure of that view but we just focused on our will. We were so lucky we will come true: The happiness peace and freedom of travel.
Around 8:30 AM we left Khopra. We were returning; the way was straight downhill. The villagers told us that it’s about 3:00 hours to Paudwar. First; we walked little fast even it was downhill. We walked almost 2:00 hours and there was no sign of villages.
We stopped for something to eat. We asked the local people traveling on the way; how long it will take to Paudwar. They told us 1:00 hour more. It was around 1:00 PM when we were in Paudwar. We stopped there for lunch. Do you have cucumber; I asked hotel owner. She nodded yes sign. Actually; in our way down I saw father and son having local cucumber with spices and salt. That made me hunger for cucumber. Now; my hunger is going to be satisfied. We ordered thuppa a type of noodle soup for lunch instead of dal bhat. In between preparation time I slept in the chairs whereas Sewa watched a movie in the tab.
After Lunch I again slept there because I did not have proper sleep last night and I was feeling dizzy too. What should I do rest of cucumber, the hotel owner asked me when I was paying the bill. Actually; she did cut the big cucumber for us. I told if it is possible please pack few pieces for us not the entire. Around 3:00 PM we headed for Tatopani. I was feeling headache and more uneasiness so we stopped for many times to have rest and we ate the one piece of cucumber one at a time. It gave us energy for the completion of the way downhill. I slept wherever we stopped.
It was 5:30 PM; we were nearby Tatopani; I saw an Amla tree. I asked Sewa to climb up to pick it up. He followed me and picked up the whole pocket of Amla. We ate amla and cross the bridge and moved nearby roadside hotel for some food. Actually, we were planning to stay at Tatopani but we decided to head back to Pokhara if we find any vehicle.
We ordered Mo.Mo and Chowmen but the bus came so we canceled and entered in the bus. We were so hungry; we missed mo.mo and chowmen all the way back to Pokhara.
Around 8:00 PM; we arrived at Beni, Myagdi. The bus stopped there and we moved to a nearby hotel for some food. Sewa called Mamata; a friend of Sewa whose hometown is Beni but she didn’t pick the call. We entered back to the bus and waited for the driver. Mamata returned back the call. She requested us to stay in her home but we insisted. We will come next time. We made her sad. Sorry, Mamata…When bus driver came back he told us that the bus is not going to Pokhara. Changing but at night was so hectic but we didn’t have a choice. We missed Mamata so much this time and all the way back to Pokhara in another bus.
We met David Paclt on our way back to Pokhara in a bus from Tatopani. He was also returning from Annapurna circuit trek. We shared our travel experience in between. Around 11:00 PM we arrived at Pokhara. I say bye to Sewa and dropped to Zero. David also dropped at Zero because he was also staying at Lakeside nearby from my house. We walked 15:00 minutes from Zero to Lakeside. At 11:30 I arrived my home leaving the David at his hotel.
Finally, we completed our heavenly trek to Khopra Danda- Khayer Lake.