Langtang-Kyanjing Gompa-Tsergo-Ri Trekking
“The Nature Calling”
Nature is the soul of my life. All professional descriptions are just the ornaments that are for the others to describe me. Yes; I am a Medical Technologist, A Lecturer, and A Student of Medical Microbiology. But all these descriptions do not describe what I am actually, what I am in quest of. I travel, I take photograph, I interview people, I do volunteering, I eat what I find in my way and what other offer me. I sleep when I need no matter where and what I have. I used to be happy when I see a smile on others. I do not want hurt others but I cannot. All the act that I do not want but become forceful gives me pain. To erase that pain I need nature far from everything, everyone and far from desire.After two years of struggling, I finally got time to travel few new routes in Nepal. A few years ago I have been to Langtang Kyanging Gompa. I became ready to unexpected and unplanned trek to Langtang-Kyanging Gompa with Joseph from Spain when Narayan Bhandari a trek organizer asked me. I became ready to take leave from my job and packed my bag to receive Joseph from Kathmandu even I was not sure whether the complete route of Langtang trek was reconstructed and reopened. I reached to Kathmandu late in the Night.
Early Kathmandu, A foggy morning I reached to the hotel where Joseph was staying. I met him in a lobby. We started talking about the trekking itinerary. Joseph had asked for 6 days trek except for bus ride but I had only 6 days. He asked me whether we can move on 21st October. I left him in a hotel and rushed to Bus Park to find out whether there was a bus or not. Pitambar Gurung who is the only one person who made it possible to do this all rush task. Without him, this was not accomplished. I am very happy to have him as a brother-com-friend. We reached to Bus Park all the buses were already left for Sybrubesi. Then I became assure that I could not complete this trek due to a short time. I sent a message to Joseph that we are unlucky. I returned back to the hotel and describe the entire situation to Joseph and finally told him that I will manage someone who has enough time. But Joseph made a quick decision that it’s not necessary to travel wholly with him. He said we can complete Langtang route. The ended plan again revived and I finally became sure that I am trekking to Langtang, Kyanjing. It may be Nature Calling to erase all the pain and find peace, freedom, and happiness in Langtang.A day with Pritam dai (brother) became very fruitful. We spent the whole day together, traveled somewhere around the Kathmandu. We take rest for few hours in his room. At evening, we went to the busiest place of Kathmandu at Darbar Square. Kathmandu Darbar Square is our frequent spot to meet and have a cup of Nepali tea in around the variety of people. I especially felt the air of freedom whole day. At the evening we returned back to room cooked food and had a little fine drink to heat up our body so that we can fight the coldness of Kathmandu city. It was late night when we went to bed but Pritam Dai had to go Hospital to receive his relative who was referred to Kathmandu for the treatment.
First Day (22nd October 2016)It was around 5:30 AM of 22nd October; Pritam Dai made me wake up. He had returned from the hospital. He was ready to drop me at a hotel where Joseph was staying. I packed the bag and we moved to catch Joseph. Pritam dai left me with a big smile and he gave me surprising congratulations to accomplish this obstacle. I waved my hand and gave big thank to Pritam dai and we separated.Around 6:30 AM Joseph and I took a taxi to reach to Bus Park. We bought a ticket to Sybrubesi and got on a bus. We departed from Kathmandu around 8:00 AM in the morning. The bus took us away from Kathmandu following the Trisuli River. We had lunch at a local hotel in Trisuli, Nuwakot. I was so worried about the health of Joseph because he was not feeling good since last day. I urge him to take bottled and boiled water and have electrolyte as much as possible. We checked at Dhunche in Army check point and police check point around 1:30 PM and moved forward to Sybrubesi. We reached to Sybrubesi around 3:30 PM. We dropped off from the bus at Sybrubesi. Joseph had picked out some money from ATM and I asked him what he is thinking of either stay at Sybrubesi or have some walk. I thought he want to stop the first day at Sybrubesi but he smiled to me and said that I am okay. Then we plan to walk few hours.I was sure that there is some place to stay at Pairo but everyone in the way were saying that there are no any place to stay up to Bamboo. To make assure; I ask one who is coming back from Langtang. He said that one hotel is reconstructed and you can stay there. I requested him for a contact number. I made a call to the hotel owner. He was so nice, he said I will prepare the room for you and come slowly you can make on time. Most of the Domen and small hotel owner tried us to stop in their hotel saying that there is no place further to stay. But we made the decision to reach to Hotel Namaste Guest House and Resturant at Pairo. We finally reached the hotel at Pairo around 6:00 PM in the evening. The hotel owner Ang Tsring Yonjan was waiting for us. He welcomed us very nicely. I have stayed at the same place there and I am again going to stay at this hotel. The hotel is situated in between two huge hills and the river is following by its side. The place is very peaceful. The sound of the river made me feel vibrated from inside. I felt so alive in the Pairo. We were unlucky to visit hot spring there because it was destroyed by an earthquake. Tsring was so happy because we were the first who stayed in his hotel after reconstruction. His hospitality was splendid. He was so curious about Josephs’ health. He made very hygienic food and cared more than a business man. I am very thankful to him because he was ready to help us if we got problem anywhere in our way to Langtang. We ended our conversation about the destruction caused by the earthquake at Pairo around 9:00 PM. I felt so down about the situation caused by the earthquake. After our conversation, we became ready to go bed. I thanked him for everything and said Good Night to everyone and moved to a room.
Second Day (23rd October 2016)The breeze of cold air with the song of the river made me woke up at 6:30 AM in the morning. I enjoyed the morning whisper in the lap of two mountains and the songs of the river flowing in between them. Tsring had already prepared our breakfast. We ate breakfast but we take rest for half an hour to determine the condition of Joseph. Around 8:00 AM we gave a hearty thanks to Tsring and left the Pairo. The sound of water, the whisper of woods, the chirping of birds followed us in all way. The beauties of woods were the vital part of our trek. The colorful trees followed everywhere. The flowers and herbs were the main focus for the camera. I briefly showed and described some of them to Joseph and sometimes he used to describe me. We enjoyed our first day trek like a friend. We ate our lunch at Lama Hotel around 12:30 PM. It was around 2:00 PM when we left Lama Hotel.We enjoyed the songs of woods, birds and river and flora in our way. Around 5:00 PM we touched to Woodland through Riverside. We decided to stay the second day in the flat landscape in between the woods as the name reflects Woodland.
Third Day (24th October 2016)The imagination of next day’s trekking made me wake up early even it was freezing cold in the Woodland. I asked hotel owner to prepare breakfast earlier so that we can start fast. We had breakfast around 6:30. I had already described the health situation and asked hotel owner to serve freshly prepared foods, but I was saddened by the behavior of the hotel owner because he had served the last night’s plain rice to Joseph. We left the hotel around 7:00 AM.
Walking on the dawn with the cooling drops of foggy water sometimes penetrated deep into the heart. The sound of the river every time vibrated the heart like a song. We followed the way by the side of the river. We saw the first clear view of mount Langtang range. We followed the way through Ghoda Tabela named after the resting place of horse and to Thangsep. I noticed that the armies check point near by Ghoda Tabel has been removed after the earthquake. We saw a small village a little farther walk from Thangsep. There was the valley but almost all of it was covered by stone when we reached nearby it and I realized that it was the Langtang Valley destroyed by Earthquake. I was shocked because I was not seeing that beautiful Valley this time where I had spent the whole night. We noticed the stoned statues in the memory of the one who had lost their soul in the Langtang Valley. We passed Langtang Valley, after half an hour we reached to Mundu where we decided to have lunch. We drank the Seabuck Throne Juice there and talked about the devastation too. After lunch, we left them saying we will meet them for coffee during our return.We passed through many of water run Mane; a holy Buddhist prayer wheel. Nearby Kyanjing we saw a stupa under going for construction on the memory of the dead people during an earthquake in Langtang and Kyanjing Valley. Around 3:00 PM we got into Kyanjing but before entering valley we decided to see the Kyanjing Gompa (Stupa), but we were stunned to see the stupa because it was totally devasted. Even it was the main attraction of that valley no one was interested in rebuilding it. With the heart filled with sorrow, we moved away from it. On the way to hotel, we stopped at the cheese factory and bought locally made Yak Cheese which was so delicious. Handmade woolen handcrafts are also famous in this area; we stepped in one handcrafts shop and observed the products too.Happy people of Kyanjing even they had lost most important part of their life were in the orchard of the hotel where we were staying that night. They were welcoming us with their fabulous smile. They were having lunch after working in the field. Among them, the happiest were the hotel owner and her three children. It was her brother who was working on cheese factory referred us to Snow Leopard Guest House at Kyanjing. We met him on the second day of our trek nearby Pairo. He told us that it will be a great help for her (hotel owner) because she had lost her husband in the earthquake and has three daughter to whom she has to care. Her greetings and welcome made us very pleasant. We rested there for an hour and had decided to walk and search the starting point for climbing Tsergo-Ri. It was almost dark when we returned back to the hotel. Dinner was ready so we did too. We enjoyed playing, talking and fighting with the children in the kitchen. It was around 9:00 when we finished dinner and moved to bed.
Fourth Day (25th October 2016)It was 5:00 AM in the morning when my eyes got opened. But I tried to sleep a little more but could not. I got up and emptied the bag and kept the rainproof coat, camera, and some emergency medicine. We ate early breakfast and packed some for later in the way. Even it was too early, our hotel owner had prepared everything early especially for us because we were planning to move early morning for climbing Tsergo-Ri. Around 6:00 AM we started our walk for Tsergo-Ri. It was very cold but we followed the path to the base of Tsergo-Ri. The dew was frozen on the stone and they were slippery. We had to cross one small river; I jumped but I slipped and my shoes got wet. Joseph followed for 5 minutes. In one narrow part, he crossed the river. I was also new for the route and we had to follow narrow way on the hill because there was no any clear way; I started GPS on mobile app Maps Me. We followed the route round in the hill. In our eyes, every spot seemed close but in reality, they were very far. When we got in the first top and saw the Kyanjing Valley I felt like I am on top. It was superb feeling that I have nothing to fear and nothing to overcome. I felt like I am the lucky in this earth to have a feeling of true happiness on the lap of nature. The freedom of happiness invaded my heart.We had already decided that we will climb the whole mountain. We made a slow pace but continuous so that it will be easy for us to catch a breath. We drank a lot of water. It was the second round top of the mountain I felt little uneasy. I asked electrolytes with Joseph. The feeling of the essence of life was awesome but I started feeling something wrong with me. Now I knew my weak point. The abnormal pattern of blood cells with low RBCs count accompanied with low hemoglobin was the cause for me that is making me weak. I was not returning without making the wish come true so I was very slow but I tried my best. The pile of black stone on the mountain and the shiny White Mountains around us made me keep walking and walking.It was the last turning round to the Tsergo-Ri; I felt like I am falling down. I stopped. I was not recovering still so I made a decision to take emergency medicine. I rested a more this time. It was just 30:00 minutes’ walk but it was taking us one hour. After 10 minute walk, I felt pain again I was not stopping without making it complete. I took the second round of medicine with a lot of electrolytes. After 15 minutes rest, I felt little well so I started again.We made it to Tsergo-Ri, 5000M around on 25th October. It was the happiest moment when we saw few people on the top including us. On the top of Tsergo-Ri and the mountains around us was the most beautiful scenario. The Mount Lirung on Nepal and Sisa Pagma on the Tibetian side were the main attraction of Tsergo-Ri. We enjoyed the panoramic view along with others. The mountain calling was completed and became my dazzling experience. I was so happy and felt like I am flying over the mountains.
We ran down on the mountain. That was another experience running on the mountain trail. Actually, Joseph is a trail runner. I got a new experience with him this time. We returned back to the hotel in one an half hour and completed before anyone else. The lunch was almost ready; after a rest and a tea we ate lunch and prepared our bag to leave.
Leaving Snow Leopard Hotel, Hotel Owner and her daughter were hard for us. They were like a caring family. She cared us more than a family member. Everything she offered us was incredible. Our small help to her was nothing compared with her deed. We were so lucky to be there on Snow Leopard. It was late in the day we decided to leave Kyanjing and flapped our hands to the most careful person of Kyanjing, The owner of Snow Leopard Hotel.Because of the limited time, we rushed most of the time on the way. Next day we had to reach Sybrubesi or Dhunche anyhow so we ran like a trail runner. Ghoda Tabela was our destination for the night but we could not make it.We took a break off in Thangsep because it was almost late evening. Two cute girls welcomed us in their hotel, Hotel Potala. They were so nice and treated us finely. They cooked very nice food. I talked little a bit with them; they have also lost their parents on Earthquake and now they were living with their brother who used to run hotel during trekking season on Langtang and work rest time in Kathmandu. I was surprised when I knew that the elder sister was a student of hotel management and younger one wants to become a doctor. After a little talk and dinner, we went for great rest for the run for next day.Fifth Day (26th October 2016)Early morning greetings with the hot tea were awesome from two sisters. They prepared breakfast for us. I sat nearby fire in the Kitchen, drank tea and talked with them about their plan. They were curious about Pokhara. When I said them I am from Pokhara and I am medical technologist they became astonished. Younger one asked me more about medical sciences. She was enquiring about studying MBBS in Pokhara. It might make them gloomy when we plan to leave but before leaving I encourage them to study and welcomed them in Pokhara any time.We followed the same way. Around 12:30 PM we arrived at Pairo, we stepped inside the same hotel where we stayed on the first day. But I was surprised with the number of guests having their lunch. When I met Tsring the hotel owner; he was so happy and busy too. He said that you are the lucky person who opened hotels business that first night. We ordered our lunch. I talked with Tsring about business and his plan to improve them. He asked me to see the Bee Palace nearby. But we were in rush so we could not. Before our leave; he thanked us and we did too. It was very caring hospitality we experienced on Langtang trek in Pairo.Around 4:00 PM we reached to Sybrubesi. There was no any public vehicle but we became lucky to find private tourist vehicle which dropped us in Dhunche. We searched one hotel to stay in Dhunche. Finally, our trek was going to finish. Next day we were separating because Joseph was planning for Gosaikund trek and I was returning to Pokhara. I was leaving Joseph next day so I described him the itinerary for Gosaikunda Trek. We walked a further to make it easy in the morning for Joseph. We ate dinner together around 7:30 PM and decided to have rest.Sixth Day (27th October 2016)It was 6:00 AM in the morning I got up and packed my bag. I was waiting for Joseph in the dining hall for a final good bye. I was shocked when Joseph said that he is returning to Kathmandu because of his legs. We ate breakfast in the hotel and purchased bus tickets for back to Kathmandu. It took 4 hours by bus to arrive at Galchi where I was going to drop off. I was returning to Pokhara that day so I decided not going to Kathmandu.I said my final Good Bye to Joseph. I flapped my hands for departure even I was out of the bus. With a heavy heart, I left Joseph on Bus for his further travel back to Kathmandu.
ClosureLangtang-Kyanjing-Tsergo-Ri “The Nature calling”; became my most memorable moment of my travel history. I was concluded that when you have a feeling of doing something or going somewhere it will definitively accomplish but you have to cross many obstacles. If you fail to overcome you will lose it. The natural beauty of Langtang-Kyanjing-Tsergo-Ri is still pounding on me. From the top of Tsergo-Ri; I felt like these mountains have called me so I made it top even I was collapsing on the way. Thank you; every-one, who became my companion for completing this trek. Especially I am very happy to travel with Joseph; the smile on his face and the word I am okay is still running in my ear. Hope to be your companion on coming days.